* 


•  * 


Hold  the  book  as  shown  above. 

(Place  the  lenses  cIoszAq  Hhe 
both  open. 

Secure  a  posfi 
the  picture. 

Adjust  the 
moving  the  adj 

the  lenses ,  forward  '^^acJ^z^f^fzOermg 
that  but  one  picture  is  to  be  developed  out 
of  the  two  in  the  illustration ,  and  until 
this  is  secured,  you  fail  to  obtain  that 
beautiful  natural  effect  which  the  Stereo = 
scope  will  produce. 


GEMS 


OF 


AMERICAN  SCENERY, 


AMONG  THE 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

WITH  DESCRIPTIVE  TEXT. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  BY  THE  ARTOTYPE  PROCESS. 
Bierstadt  Patent,  March  21,  1876. 


PUBLISHED  BY 

HARROUN  &  BIERSTADT, 

NEW-YORK. 


* 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1878, 
By  Harroun  &  Bierstadt, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


* 


INTRODUCTION. 

IN  presenting  this  work  to  the  public  it  has  not  been 
our  purpose  to  issue  an  ordinary  guide-book,  filled 
with  mere  records  of  routes,  hotels,  prices,  &c. ;  we  have 
rather  sought  to  avoid  such  details,  and  have  bestowed 
our  attention  on  the  natural  scenery  of  the  mountains. 
We  have  endeavored  to  produce  a  book  which  will  serve 
as  a  souvenir  to  visitors  and  which  will  not  be  thrown 
aside  after  a  few  days,  but  will  always  be  looked  at  with 
pleasure. 

For  attaining  the  present  excellence  of  our  illustrations 
we  are  largely  indebted  to  the  “  Artotype  Process,”  by 
means  of  which  we  not  only  produce  pictures  at  less  cost, 
but  fully  equal  to  ordinary  photographs  in  brilliancy,  with 
the  additional  advantage  of  permanency.  Instead  of  the 
unstable  salts  of  silver,  our  illustrations  are  printed  in 
permanent  pigments,  and  will  retain  their  brilliancy  as 
long  as  the  paper  lasts  on  which  they  are  printed. 

The  best  form  of  prismatic  lens  is  adopted.  Their 
arrangement  is  new  and  perfect,  and  they  are  so  carefully 
adjusted  that  the  stereoscopic  effect  is  seen  as  easily  as 
with  the  most  costly  instrument  made. 

The  greatest  care  possible  has  been  used  in  selecting 
the  various  subjects  for  illustrations,  in  order  to  have 
only  those  points  that  would  prove  most  interesting  to 
the  public.  Appended  to  each  picture  is  a  short  de¬ 
scription  of  the  place  it  represents,  containing  many 
facts  which  may  interest  the  reader. 

The  perfection  of  the  whole  arrangement  is  such  that 
we  feel  it  must  commend  itself  to  all  lovers  of  natural 
scenery'. 

Before  describing  in  detail  any  particular  part  of  the 
mountains,  perhaps  a  short  historical  account  of  the 


region  and  of  some  of  the  associations  connected  with 
it  would  interest  the  reader. 

Long  before  the  European  settlers  had  broken  the 
solitude  which  reigned  over  the  New  England  coast, 
the  White  Mountains  had  been  the  object  of  the  In¬ 
dians’  fear  and  veneration.  Their  savage  minds  were 
early  impressed  by  the  wildness  and  grandeur  of  the 
scene.  They  saw  the  Great  Spirit  in  the  lofty  hills  and 
the  thunders  of  the  elements.  Here  they  performed 
their  simple  rites  and  ceremonies,  without  molestation, 
for  ages,  and  nearly  every  spot  gained  fresh  interest  from 
some  weird  story  or  legend  which  had  been  handed  down 
through  many  generations.  Some  of  the  beautiful  names 
they  gave  to  the  rivers,  mountains  and  lakes  still  sur¬ 
vive  :  such  as  Ammonoosuc,  Chocorua,  Kiarsar^e,  Win  - 
nipisaukee.  Mt.  Washington  they  called  Agiochook, 
“The  Mountain  of  the  Snowy  Forehead;”  and  so, 
nearly  every  name  suggested  some  feature  of  the  spot 
to  which  it  belonged,  or  recalled  some  story  connected 
with  it.  But  like  the  people  themselves,  the  names  have 
been  pushed  aside  by  the  innovations  of  the  less  poetical 
and  more  practical  explorers,  eager  to  bestow  honor  on 
their  earthly  divinities;. 

The  height  and  situation  of  the  mountains,  so  near  the 
coast  and  visible  far  out  at  sea,  made  it  extremely  im  • 
probable  that  they  would  long  remain  unexplored  by  the 
hardy  settlers.  Accordingly  we  find  that  in  1631  or  1632, 
only  eleven  years  after  the  landing  of  the  Mayflower,  they 
were  visited  by  Walter  Neal  and  others.  These  were 
probably  the  first  white  men  who  had  ever  trod  there, 
though  undoubtedly  many  of  the  early  visits  have  never 
been  recorded.  In  1642,  Darby  Field,  an  Irishman, 
traveling  with  Indian  guides,  made  the  ascent  to  the 
summit.  His  description  of  the  journey  is  given  at  some 
length  in  “Winthrop’s  Journal.” 

Though  so  near  to  our  largest  cities  and  most  thickly 
populated  districts,  they  remained  unknown  except  to 


venturesome  travelers  in  search  of  fresh  novelties,  and  to 
the  few  people  living  in  the  vicinity.  The  beauties  of  the 
scenery  were  not  sufficiently  great  to  cause  the  discom¬ 
forts  of  traveling  to  be  overlooked.  As  late  as  1792  the 
only  settler  in  the  region  was  Abel  Crawford,  who  gained 
quite  a  reputation  by  acting  as  guide  to  visitors.  The 
first  hotel  in  the  mountains  was  built  by  him  in  1803,, 
on  the  spot  where  the  Fabyan  House  now  stands.  It 
bore  no  resemblance,  however,  to  its  successors  of  the 
present  day,  being  a  plain  structure  capable  of  giving 
temporary  shelter  to  a  few  guests  only. 

Since  1821,  when  the  mountains  were  first  visited  by 
ladies,  they  have  become  widely  known  and  each  year  are 
visited  by  a  large  number  of  people.  Every  facility  for 
sight-S-eing  has  been  gradually  furnished  as  the  increase 
of  travel  demanded.  Several  railroads  land  the  traveler 
either  at  or  within  easy  distance  of  the  numerous  hotels 
which  have  sprung  up  in  the  most  beautiful  spots,  and 
which  furnish  every  comfort  imaginable  to  the  city 
visitors.  In  1855  the  old  bridle  path  to  the  summit  of 
Mt.  Washington  was  superseded  by  a  well-built  carriage 
road,  thus  rendering  the  ascent  rapid  and  easy,  while  two 
houses  furnished  shelter  to  those  who  wished  to  see  the 
sun  rise  and  set  from  the  summit.  Within  a  few  years  a 
railroad  has  been  built  up  the  mountain,  a  description  of 
which  is  reserved  for  another  place. 

So  much  has  been  already  said  by  others  in  regard  to 
the  beauties  of  the  scenery  here  that  it  seems  superfluous 
for  us  to  add  anything  more.  Altogether,  the  White 
Mountains  form  one  of  the  finest  places  of  summer  resort 
on  our  continent.  The  sea  shore  perhaps  exerts  more 
powerful  attractions  for  some,  but  mountain  scenery 
certainly  engages  the  affections  of  the  larger  number, 
and  while  this  is  the  case  Americans  will  not  cease  to 
come  and  praise  the  “  Switzerland  of  America.” 


INDEX. 


Plymouth,  N.  H .  7 

The  Flume .  h 

The  Pool .  15 

The  Basin .  19 

The  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain .  23 

Profile  Lake .  27 

Echo  Lake .  31 

Beecher’s  Cascade .  35 

Elephant’s  Head  and  Gate  of  the  Notch .  39 

View  from  the  Gate  of  the  Notch .  43 

Ripley's  Falls .  *47 

White  Mountain  Notch  from  Mt.  Willey .  51 

Willey  House .  55 

Upper  Falls  of  the  Ammonoosuc  .  59 

Mt.  Washington  Railway  and  Summit .  63 

View  from  Mt.  Washington  Carriage  Road _  67 

Mt.  Washington  from  the  Glen .  71 

Emerald  Pool  .  75 

Thompson’s  Cascades .  79 

Crystal  Cascade .  83 

Glen  Ellis  Falls .  87 

North  Conway,  N.  H .  91 

The  Cathedral .  95 

Centre  Harbor,  N.  H .  99 


PLYMOUTH,  N.  H. 


IS  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Pemigewasset  River, 

125  miles  from  Boston,  and  is  reached  in  half  a 
day’s  ride  by  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Rail¬ 
road.  Tourists  to  and  from  the  White  Mountains  by 
railroad  and  stage  stop  here  to  dine  at  the  Pemigewasset 
House,  a  part  of  which  is  used  as  the  station.  From  this 
point  stages  leave  daily  for  the  trip  through  the  Pemige-  jg 
wasset  Valley,  to  the  Flume,  Profile  House,  and  through 
the  Franconia  Notch.  Livermore  Falls,  on  the  Pemige-  v 
wasset,  a  short  distance  from  the  village,  though  half 
artificial,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  cascades  that 
abound  on  that  beautiful  river.  Just  north  of  the  village, 
Baker’s  River  contributes  its  waters  to  the  Pemigewasset, _ 
which  in  turn  joins  the  Merrimack,  miles  below,  on  its 
way  to  the  sea.  In  the  village  stands  the  old  building 
where  Daniel  Webster  made  his  first  legal  argument. 

The  lamented  T.  Starr  King  says  in  his  book  “  The 
White  Hills,”  that  “  in  scenery  Plymouth  is  remarkable 
for  the  beauty  of  its  meadows,  through  which  the  Pemige¬ 
wasset  winds,  and  for  the  grace  of  its  elm-trees.” 

From  the  Summit  of  Prospect  Mountain,  near  Plym-  ;  v 
outh,  we  get  fine  views  of  the  famous  lakes  Winnipisaukee 
and  Squam,  while  the  hazy  mountains  in  the  distance 
make  up  a  scene  of  exceeding  beauty. 


THE  FLUME. 


ONE  of  the  chief  objects  of  interest  in  the  Franconia 
Mountains  is  the  Flume.  It  is  situated  about 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  Flume  House  in  the 
forest.  A  short  walk  following  the  stream  up  toward  its 
source,  and  passing  on  the  way  several  beautiful  Cascades, 
soon  brings  us  to  the  narrow  fissure  in  the  mountain 
through  which  the  stream  flows  several  hundred  feet, 
between  granite  walls  over  fifty  feet  high  Crossing  and 
recrossing  from  one  side  to  the  other  on  rustic  bridges 
and  planks,  laid  from  rock  to  rock  we  advance  toward 
the  upper  end,  where  the  Flume  contracts  to  a  width  of 
about  ten  feet,  holding  suspended  over  our  heads  a  large 
bowlder,  which  constantly  seems  as  if  about  to  fall  and 
crush  the  venturesome  traveler.  By  climbing  the  rocky 
cliffs  one  can  obtain  a  fine  view  from  above ;  a  small 
bridge,  formed  of  a  fallen  tree,  crosses  the  fissure,  and 
looking  down,  one  sees  the  stream  dancing  on  its  way  to 
the  Pemigewasset,  the  bowlder  lightly  hanging  in  its  place, 
and  the  sight-seers  *vearily  toiling  through. 

Above  as  well  as  below  the  Flume,  and  on  its  course 
through,  the  stream  is  broken  into  numerous  small  cas¬ 
cades  and  falls,  which  add  to  the  wild  beauty  of  the 
scene. 


. 


14 


♦ 


THE  POOL. 


AKING  a  small  path  in  front  of  the  Flume  House, 


X  a  walk  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile  through  the 
cool  and  beautiful  woods,  brings  us  to  the  Pool,  which  is 
very  similar  to  the  Basin,  formed  in  the  same  manner, 
though  on  a  grander  scale.  The  waters  of  the  Pemige- 
wasset  pour  over  a  small  cascade  into  a  nearly  circular 
excavation  in  the  rock,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
in  diameter.  The  watei  is  remarkably  clear,  and  appears 
of  a  dark  green  color,  owing  to  its  great  depth,  nearly 
forty  feet  An  old  man  who  has  been  there  many  years 
will  row  any  one  who  wishes  it  around  the  Pool  in  his 
boat,  for  a  small  remuneration.  Indeed,  the  old  man  is 
one  of  the  attractions  of  the  place,  and  is  generally  called 
the  Philosopher.  He  propounds  a  curious  theory  con¬ 
cerning  the  form  and  structure  of  the  earth,  and  will  sell 
a  small  pamphlet  setting  forth  his  theory. 

The  whole  course  of  the  Pemigewasset  from  Profile 
Lake  through  the  Basin,  Pool,  and  on  its  winding  way 
through  the  forest,  is  marked  by  a  series  of  cascades, 
falls,  and  rapids,  making  it  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most 
attractive  streams  among  the  mountains. 


15 


18 


THE  BASIN. 


FEW  miles  south  of  the  Profile  House  the  Pemige- 


ii  wasset  River,  flowing  close  to  the  roadside,  falls 
in  a  small  cascade  into  the  Basin.  The  whirling  motion 
of  the  water,  carrying  with  it  bowlders  and  stones,  has 
ground  this  cavity  into  the  solid  granite.  It  is  between 
thirty  and  forty  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  water  in  it  is 
about  eighteen  feet  deep.  Even  in  the  warmest  weather 
of  summer  the  water  is  intensely  cold,  and  so  clear  that 
minute  objects  at  the  bottom  can  be  distinctly  seen. 

The  situation  of  the  Basin,  so  near  the  road  that  it  can 
easily  be  seen  from  the  carriage,  detracts  from  the  beauty 
of  this  natural  curiosity,  which  would  otherwise  be  more 
generally  noticed. 

Just  in  front  of  the  Basin,  on  the  same  side  of  the  road, 
is  a  path  leading  to  another  series  of  cascades  and  rapids 
well  worth  visiting. 


* 


19 


* 


* 


23 


THE  OLD  MAN  OF  THE  MOUNTAIN. 


HE  object  which  attracts,  perhaps,  more  attention 


JL  from  visitors  ihan  any  other  single  place  in  the 
mountains,  and  which  all  tourists  never  fail  to  see,  is  the 
“  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain.”  It  has  often  been  the 
theme  of  prose  and  verse,  and  Hawthorne  has  made  it 
the  subject  of  one  of  his  most  delightful  stories.  Passing 
down  the  road  some  fifty  rods  from  the  Profile  House,  a 
small  sign  inscribed  with  the  single  word  “  Profile  ”  directs 
the  visitor’s  attention  to  the  object  of  his  search.  Taking 
a  seat  on  the  bench  by  the  roadside  and  looking  up, 
there,  1,500  feet  above  the  road,  is  the  “  Old  Stone 
Face,”  looking  over  the  placid  lake  at  the  mountain’s 
base,  and  down  the  valley.  With  its  massive  forehead 
and  chin,  and  sharply  cut  nose,  it  wears  a  stern  expres¬ 
sion,  but  seems  a  little  yielding  about  the  thin  lips. 

It  is  a  colossal  piece  of  natural  sculpture  foimed  by 
masses  of  rock  jutting  over  one  another  so  as  to  exactly 
resemble  the  human  face.  Its  length  from  the  chin  to 
the  top  of  the  forehead  is  eighty  feet ;  and  what  adds  to 
the  wonder,  is  the  fact  that  the  crags  which  form  the  pro¬ 
file  are  not  directly  under  each  other.  Moving  a  few  rods 
further  down,  the  face  becomes  distorted  into  a  toothless 
old  woman,  and  gradually  all  resemblance  to  a  human 
face  is  lost,  and  it  fades  away  into  the  bare,  steep  cliif 
of  Cannon  Mountain. 

The  beautiful  little  lake  at  the  mountain’s  base  is 
sometimes  called  the  “Old  Man’s  Wash-bowl,”  but  is 
more  generally  known  as  “  Profile  Lake.” 


2d 


26 


PROFILE  LAKE. 


HIS  lovely  sheet  of  water  was  formerly  known  as 


X  “Ferrin’s  Pond,”  but  is  now  called  by  the  more 
euphonious  title  of  “  Profile  Lake.”  It  lies  near  the 
highest  part  of  the  road  through  Franconia  Notch,  and 
is  only  a  few  rods  from  the  Profile  House.  The  springs 
that  supply  it  with  water  are  within  a  stone’s  throw  of 
streams  that  flow  in  an  opposite  direction  into  Echo 
Lake,  on  the  other  side  of  the  ridge.  From  the  western 
shore  the  steep  side  of  Profile  or  Cannon  Mountain 
covered  with  trees,  rises  high  above  the  bosom  of  the 
lake.  Seated  on  the  benches  by  the  margin,  we  can 
watch  the  dancing  image  of  the  “Great  Stone  Face” 
inverted  in  the  water ;  from  this  circumstance  the  lake 
lias  been  termed  by  many,  in  fancy,  the  “Old  Man’s 
Mirror”  or  the  “  Old  Man's  Wash-bowl.”  Or  if  we  wish 
we  can  have  a  pleasant  row  around  the  lake,  calling 
forth  the  echo  that  exists  here,,  but  which,  of  course, 
cannot  compare  with  its  rival  in  another  part  of  the 
Notch.  From  the  southern  end,  the  Pemigewasset  flows, 
a  rushing,  babbling  brook,  abounding  in  beautiful  rapids 
and  cascades,  and  deep  pools  where  the  speckled  trout 
lurk  in  the  shadows.  The  lake  is  a  favorite  resort  of 
fishermen,  and  many  stories  are  told  of  enormous  trout 
that  have  been  drawn  from  its  waters. 


■  'X, 


>* 


30 


ECHO  LAKE. 


HIS  beautiful  lake  is  situated  about  half  a  mile 


A.  north  of  the  Profile  House,  on  the  road  to  the 
village  of  Franconia,  and,  as  its  name  implies,  is  cele¬ 
brated,  and  justly  too,  for  the  wonderful  echo  that  is 
heard  there.  Its  location  is  favorable  for  producing 
such  a  reputation,  as  it  is  completely  walled  in  on  all 
sides  by  Mount  Cannon,  Bald  Mountain,  and  Mount 
Lafayette,  against  whose  rocky  sides  every  sound  is 
tossed  back  and  forth  until  growing  fainter  in  the 
distance  it  is  borne  upward  and  lost  in  the  thin  air. 
Late  in  the  afternoon  when  the  mountains  cast  their 
shadows  over  the  lake,  it  is  visited  by  a  large  number 
from  the  hotel  and  vicinity,  and  boating  parties  row 
around  wakening  with  their  merry  voices  the  echoes  that 
lie  sleeping  here.  But  the  human  voice  is  not  loud 
enough  for  many  visitors,  so  a  trumpet  is  kept  at  the 
boat-house  to  satisfy  their  longings  with  its  more  power¬ 
ful  tones ;  or  a  small  cannon  is  discharged,  and  then  the 
uproar  is  tremendous,  sounding  as  if  a  whole  park  of 
artillery  were  in  the  neighborhood. 

Perhaps,  to  those  who  come  here  often,  impressed  with 
the  unfailing  charm  of  the  spot,  Wordsworth’s  noble 
description  of  mountain  echoes,  though  originally  written 
of  another  lake  and  other  mountains,  will  not  seem  out 
of  place  : 

“The  Rock,  like  something  starting  from  a  sleep, 

Took  up  the  Lady’s  voice,  and  laughed  again  ; 

That  ancient  Woman,  seated  on  Helm-crag, 

Was  ready  with  her  cavern  ;  Hammer-scar, 

And  the  tall  steep  of  Silver-how,  sent  forth 
A  noise  of  laughter  ;  southern  Loughrigg  heard, 

And  Fairfield  answered  with  a  mountain  tone; 
Helvellyn  far  into  the  clear  blue  sky 
Carried  the  Lady’s  voice, — old  Skiddaw  blew 
His  speaking-trumpet  ; — back  out  of  the  clouds 
Of  Glaramara  southward  came  the  voice  ; 

And  Kirkstone  tossed  it  from  his  misty  head.” 


ECHO  iAKE. 


31 


BEECHER’S  CASCADES. 


JUST  at  the  west  of  the  Crawford  House  is  a  path 
leading  through  the  woods  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
where  we  reach  a  brawling  mountain  stream,  along  the 
course  of  which  is  a  succession  of  cascades  and  water¬ 
falls. 

These  cascades  were  discovered  in  1858,  and  were  first 
named  “  Gibb’s  Cascades  ”  in  honor  of  the  proprietor  of 
the  Crawford  House  at  that  time,  but  the  name  has 
since  been  changed  to  the  one  above  given. 

Of  the  three  principal  falls  that  make  up  the  group, 
the  middle  one,  which  we  have  chosen  for  our  illustration, 
is,  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful.  But  it  is  difficult  to  make 
any  choice  in  that  respect ;  each  has  its  attractions,  and 
with  their  forest  surroundings  the  series  form  one  of  the 
many  charming  spots  in  the  Notch. 


35 


38 


ELEPHANTS  HEAD 
AND  GATE  OF  THE  NOTCH. 


ROM  the  piazza  of  the  Crawford  House 


the  Gate  of  the  White  Mountain  Notch 


is  in  full  view.  The  rock  at  the  left  resem¬ 
bles  the  head  of  an  elephant  facing  the  road 
and  apparently  guarding  the  entrance.  Near 
this  rock  the  first  Crawford  House  was  built, 
which  was  afterwards  destroyed  by  fire.  In 
the  distance  the  rounded  dome  of  Mount 
Webster  rises  2,000  feet  above  the  Elephant’s 
Head,  forming  the  eastern  wall  of  the  Notch. 

At  the  right,  near  the  point  from  which 
our  illustration  is  taken,  is  the  road  leading 
to  the  top  of  Mount  Willard. 


E  LEPHANT”  S  HEAD  AND  GATE  OP 


89 


mm  m  - - - -  - _ _ 


42 


VIEW  FROM  THE  GATE  OF  THE 


NOTCH. 


HE  Saco,  searching  for  a  passage  through  the 


A.  mountains,  on  its  way  to  the  ocean,  flows,  while 
yet  a  small  brook,  through  the  great  White  Mountain 
Notch.  This  natural  gate-way  was  discovered  in  1772, 
by  a  hunter  named  Nash,  and  served  as  a  shorter  route 
for  farmers  to  bring  their  provisions  from  the  towns 
below. 

It  is  a  dark,  gloomy  scene,  but  one  of  sublime  grandeur. 
The  greater  part  of  the  way  is  an  easy  ascent,  with  the 
steep  walls  of  Mount  Webster  on  the  east  and  Mount 
Willey  on  the  west,  towering  2,000  feet  above  the  road. 
Directly  to  the  north  is  the  frowning  cliff  of  Mount 
Willard,  a  perpendicular  wall  of  over  1,200  feet,  which 
seems  to  bar  all  further  progress.  Just  before  reaching 
this  point  the  hardest  part  of  the  road  begins.  While 
toiling  up  the  rocky  way,  a  short  curve  brings  us  to  the 
gate  of  the  Notch,  within  full  view  of  the  Crawford 
House,  which  is  situated  a  short  distance  outside,  on 
a  level  plateau  several  acres  in  extent. 

This  house  is  a  central  point  from  which  excursions 
are  made  to  the  Notch,  Silver  Cascade,  Gibb’s  Cascade, 
Mount  Willard,  Mount  Washington,  by  rail  or  by  the  old 
bridle  path. 

Following  in  the  footsteps  of  man,  the  railroad  has 
penetrated  this  quiet  place,  and  broken  the  solitude  of 
the  scene.  Travelers  to  and  from  North  Conway  can 
now  pass  through  the  Notch  by  rail. 


43 


*r 


RIPLEY’S  FALLS. 


IN  describing  these  falls  (sometimes  known  as  the 
“  Sylvan  Glade  Cataract  ”  )  we  content  ourselves 
with  quoting  from  T.  Starr  King’s  “White  Hills,”  feeling 
that  his  description  cannot  be  improved  : 

“  But  a  more  wild  and  beautiful  water-fall  than  any 
hitherto  seen  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains,  was 
discovered  on  Mount  Willey  in  September,  1858,  by  Mr. 
Ripley,  of  North  Conway,  and  Mr.  Porter,  of  New  York. 
An  old  fisherman  had  reported  that  he  had  once  seen  a 
wonderful  cascade  on  a  stream  that  pours  down  that 
mountain,  and  empties  into  the  Saco  below  the  Willey 
House.  These  gentlemen  drove  through  the  Notch  to 
the  second  bridge  below  the  Willey  House,  which  crosses 
a  stream  with  the  unpoetical  name  of  Cow  Brook,  and 
followed  up  this  rivulet  into  the  wild  forest.  An  ascent 
of  nearly  two  miles  revealed  to  them  the  object  of  their 
search,  inclosed  between  the  granite  walls  of  a  very  steep 
ravine,  whose  cliffs,  crowned  with  a  dense  forest  of  spruce, 
are  singularly  grand.  They  saw  the  cascade  leaping  first 
over  four  rock\  stair-ways,  each  of  them  about  six  feet 
high,  and  then  gliding,  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees, 
a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  with  many  graceful  curves,  down 
a  solid  bed  of  granite  into  a  pool  below.  The  cascade 
is  about  seventy-five  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  fifty  at  the 
summit.” 


* 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN  NOTCH  FROM 
MOUNT  WILLEY. 


SINCE  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburgh  Railway  was 
built  through  the  White  Mountain  Notch,  many 
fine  views  have  been  made  easy  of  access  that  formerly 
required  hours  of  hard  climbing.  All  along  the  line  of 
the  road  from  North  Conway  to  where  it  emerges  from 
the  shadow  of  the  mountains  at  the  Crawford  House, 
magnificent  views  are  obtained  of  the  Saco  Valley  in¬ 
closed  by  the  steep  walls  of  Mount  Webster  on  the  east, 
and  Mount  Willey  on  the  west.  The  railroad  creeps 
along  the  side  of  the  latter,  crossing  the  track  of  the 
famous  avalanche  that  overwhelmed  the  Willey  family  in 
1826. 

Our  illustration  is  taken  looking  toward  the  north,  over 
the  tops  of  the  forest  trees,  and  admirably  shows  the 
curve  of  the  valley  as  it  sweeps  from  the  summit  of  one 
mountain  to  another.  Far  in  the  distance  the  Willey 
House  is  seen  nestling  in  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  while 
above  it  the  railroad  clings  to  the  side  of  Mount  Willey, 
and  farther  along  skirts  the  almost  perpendicular  cliffs  of 
Mount  Willard. 

Many  of  the  guests  at  the  hotels  in  the  vicinity  take 
advantage  of  the  facilities  offered  by  the  railroad  company 
and  make  the  trip  through  the  Notch.  Open  cars  are 
furnished,  so  that  the  traveler  can  enjoy  an  unobstructed 
view  in  every  direction.  The  trip  is  a  thoroughly  enjoy¬ 
able  one,  and  should  not  be  omitted. 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN  NOTCH  PROM  MOUNT  WILLEY. 


f 


m 


54 


THE  WILLEY  HOUSE. 


HE  traveler  through  the  White  Mountain  Notch 


J.  is  shown  an  old  house,  standing  by  the  roadside, 
which  is  the  scene  of  the  most  tragic  incident  which 
ever  happened  among  the  mountains.  According  to 
Spaulding,  the  Willey  House  was  originally  built  in 
1793,  and  was  first  occupied  by  Mr.  Samuel  Willey,  Jr., 
and  family,  in  the  autumn  of  1825.  In  June  of  the 
following  year  they  noticed  a  large  mass  of  earth  and 
rock  glide  down  the  side  of  Mount  Willey,  which  rises 
in  the  rear  of  the  house,  and  cover  the  road  a  short 
distance  from  them.  Fearing  for  the  safety  of  his  family, 
Mr.  Willey  built  a  strong  hut  further  down  the  valley, 
whither  they  might  flee,  if  any  avalanche  should  threaten 
the  house.  Late  in  the  summer  there  was  a  long  drought, 
and  on  the  27th  of  August  the  rain  commenced.  For 
three  days  the  tempest  raged,  and  when  it  cleared  at  last 
the  whole  country  presented  a  vast  scene  of  devastation. 
Trees  were  felled  in  all  directions,  and  the  beds  of  the 
rivers  were  strewn  with  vast  bowlders,  torn  from  the 
mountains  by  the  avalanches,  which  marked  and  scarred 
them  on  all  sides.  For  a  few  days,  the  people  in  the 
neighboring  villages  were  in  doubt  ^s  to  the  fate  of  the 
Willey  family,  and  when  they  entered  the  Notch  their 
worst  fears  were  realized.  The  house  was  still  standing, 
but  empty  and  deserted.  The  avalanche  had  split  on  a 
large  rock,  just  back  of  the  house,  and  came  down  on 
each  side.  After  a  short  search,  the  bodies  of  four  of 
the  family  and  two  hired  men  were  discovered.  Three 
others,  a  daughter  and  two  sons,  were  never  found.  It 
is  thought  that  in  the  darkness  of  night,  amidst  the 
raging  of  the  tempest,  as  the  family  tried  to  escape  to  a 
place  of  safety,  they  were  overtaken,  and  perished  beneath 
the  avalanche.  Their  house  still  stands  in  the  dark  and 
gloomy  Notch,  and  behind  it  can  be  seen  the  rock  which 
saved  it  from  destruction. 


\ 


58 


UPPER  FALLS  OF  THE 
AMMONOOSUC. 


HESE  falls  or  rapids  are  near  the 


X  Fabyan  House,  not  more  than  three 
miles  distant  from  the  Crawford  House, 
and  within  a  short  distance  of  the  Mount 
Washington  Railway  Station. 

The  Ammonoosuc  has  been  called  the 
“wildest  stream  in  New  England.”  It  is 
fed  from  the  cone  of  Mount  Washington 
and  the  Blue  Ponds  near  the  summit  of 
Mount  Monroe,  and  dashes  down  its  rocky 
course  of  thirty  miles  with  a  descent  of 
more  than  five  thousand  feet  to  where  it 
joins  the  Connecticut  at  Wells  River. 


59 


'  ■  •  :t~  .  •'  - 


•  ; 


•f 


62 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON  RAILWAY 
AND  SUMMIT. 

THIS  wonderful  piece  of  engineering  was  projected 
in  1858,  when  a  charter  was  granted  to  Sylvester 
Marsh  for  constructing  the  road.  The  work  of  building 
was  not  commenced  until  1866,  and  it  occupied  three 
years  in  construction. 

The  road  is  nearly  three  miles  long,  and  the  ascent  is 
one  foot  in  three.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary  rails,  it 
has  a  central  double  rail  with  cross  pieces  every  four 
inches,  into  which  a  cog-wheel,  driven  by  the  locomotive, 
plays.  Four  revolutions  of  the  engine  are  required  for 
one  of  the  driving-wheel ;  the  object  being  strength  and 
safety  rather  than  speed.  The  engine  is  placed  below 
the  passenger  car  and  pushes  it  up  the  mountain  at  a 
moderately  slow  rate  of  speed.  Both  locomotive  and 
car  are  provided  with  friction  and  atmospheric  brakes,  to 
guard  against  accidents,  and  the  arrangements  for  safety 
and  comfort  are  so  complete  that  all  fear  may  be  laid 
aside.  The  station  is  near  the  Fabyan  House,  a  short 
distance  only  from  the  Upper  Falls  of  the  Ammonoosuc. 
It  is  about  three  miles  from  the  Crawford  House,  and 
ten  miles  from  the  Twin  Mountain  House. .  Two  trips 
up  and  down  the  mountain  are  made  each  day. 

The  view  here  represented  was  taken  near  the  top  of 
the  mountain.  At  the  right  of  the  track  a  rude  monument 
marks  the  spot  where,  in  1855,  Miss  Lizzie  Bourne  died 
from  fatigue,  unablh,  to  reach  the  summit,  which  was 
almost  in  sight.  Her  fate  was  a  sad  one,  but  she  was 
only  one  of  a  large  number  who  at  different  times  have 
lost  their  way  and  perished  in  the  dense  fogs  that 
frequently  envelop  the  mountain. 

Once  arrived  at  the  summit,  the  visitor  finds  the  old 
“Tip  Top  ”  and  “  Summit  ”  Houses  still  standing,  though 
they  are  used  for  other  purposes  than  formerly.  Their 
■places  are  taken  by  a  large  and  commodious  house,  with 
all  the  appointments  of  a  first-class  hotel.  The  Mount 
Washington  Summit  House  stands  6,285  feet  above  the 
sea-level,  and  from  its  windows  magnificent  views  are  to 
be  had.  Sometimes  on  a  clear  day,  the  Atlantic  Ocean 
can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  seventy-five  miles.  The 
views  at  sunset  and  at  sunrise  alone  will  repay  one  for 
the  time  and  trouble  spent  in  reaching  the  summit. 


'  h 


WASHINGTON  HAILWAY  AND  SU 


68 


66 


VIEW  FROM  THE  MT.  WASHINGTON 


CARRIAGE  ROAD. 


MONG  the  different  routes  up  Mt.  Washington, 


the  carriage  road  from  the  Glen  still  remains  a 
favorite  with  many  pleasure  seekers.  This  road,  from 
its  starting-point  to  the  summit,  is  about  eight  miles 
long,  with  an  average  rise  of  one  foot  in  eight.  About 
half  way  up,  the  road  winds  around  the  “  Ledge  ” 
near  which  point  our  illustration  is  taken.  From  here 
upward  vegetation  grows  more  and  more  stunted  until 
nearly  all  traces  of  life  are  lost  sight  of,  except  here 
and  there  a  tuft  of  grass  or  moss  among  the  rocks. 

Looking  down  the  mountain  we  catch  a  glimpse  of 
the  Glen  and  the  Peabody  River  valley,  while  opposite 
the  view  is  bounded  by  Mt.  Moriah  and  the  Carter 
Mountains.  Down  in  the  valley  the  Glen  House  is 
seen,  a  white  spot  on  the  landscape.  This  hotel  was 
originally  built  in  1852,  and  since  then  has  been 
constantly  enlarged  and  improved,  until  now  it  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  best  known  of  all  the  mountain 
houses. 

The  Glen  House  is  a  central  point  for  visiting  some 
of  the  most  striking  scenes  in  the  mountains.  A  few 
miles  distant  are  the  Emerald  and  Garnet  Pools  on  the 
Peabody  River,  Thompson’s  Cascade,  Crystal  Cascade 
and  Glen  Ellis  Fall.  Half  way  up  the  carriage  road 
a  small  path  branches  off  to  Tuckerman’s  Ravine, 
though  on  account  of  its  roughness  few  persons  take 
this  route,  preferring  another  that  leads  to  the  same 
spot  from  the  summit. 


■  V  . 


— 


«■  - 


70 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON  FROM 
THE  GLEN.  * 

FROM  no  other  point  in  the  mountains  can  so 
distinct  a  view  be  had  of  the  principal  peaks 
of  the  range,  as  from  the  Glen.  In  one  view  Mounts 
Washington,  Adams,  Jefferson,  Madison  and  Clay  can 
be  seen  lifting  toward  the  clouds  their  giant  heads, 
seamed  and  scarred  with  the  storms  of  centuries.  A 
pleasant  afternoon  may  be  spent  in  watching,  from  the 
piazza  of  the  hotel,  the  clouds,  as  they  sweep  over  the 
summit  of  the  mountains,  often  settling  until  they 
envelop  and  hide  the  peaks  from  the  eye.  The  carriage 
road  up  Mount  Washington  begins  at  the  door  of  the 
house,  and  some  two  hours  after  the  carriages  have 
started  for  the  summit,  they  can  be  seen  to  emerge  from 
the  forest  and  follow  the  road  around  the  ledge  about 
midway  of  the  ascent.  The  road  is  visible  nearly  the 
whole  distance  above  the  ledge  ;  but  the  distance  is  so 
great  that  a  good  glass  is  required  to  watch  the  move¬ 
ments  of  the  carriages. 

The  summit  is  4,653  feet  above  the  Glen,  and  6,285 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  and,  with  the  exception 
of  the  Black  Mountains  in  North  Carolina,  is  the  highest 
point  of  land  east  of  the  Mississippi. 


WASHINGTON  PROM  THE  GLEN. 


\ 


■  ,  ■ 


74 


EMERALD  POOL. 


N  the  Peabody  River,  which  flows 


directly  in  front  of  the  Glen  House, 
there  are  numerous  pools  among  the  rocks 
which  form  its  bed.  The  largest  of  these 
is  within  a  mile  of  the  house,  in  the  direc¬ 
tion  of  Pinkham  Notch.  The  depth  of  the 
pool  and  the  shade  of  the  surrounding 
trees  lend  to  the  water  a  delightful  green 
color,  that  has  given  it  its  name. 

The  beauty  of  this  forest  gem  has  often 
been  the  subject  of  the  artist’s  pencil.  It 
is  easily  reached,  not  being  far  from  the 
road. 


75 


' 


THOMPSON’S  CASCADES. 


IF  the  visitor  were  prepared  for  roughing  it  and  for 
real  mountain-climbing  instead  of  ordinary  sight¬ 
seeing,  he  might  find  on  nearly  every  brook  and  stream 
in  the  mountains  numerous  pools  and  cascades,  for  the 
most  part  nameless  and  unknown,  which  would  amply 
repay  him  for  the  trouble  undergone.  Indeed,  a  large 
part  of  the  mountains  remain  comparatively  unexplored, 
ready  to  disclose  their  beauties  to  those  who  search 
them  out. 

The  Glen  is  especially  rich  in  these  hidden  treasures. 
Two  rivers  take  their  rise  here,  the  Ellis  flowing  south  to 
the  Saco,  and  the  Peabody,  which  joins  the  Androscoggin 
at  Gorham.  These  and  their  tributaries,  besides  furnish¬ 
ing  the  well-known  Glen  Ellis  Fall  and  Crystal  Cascade, 
offer  many  smaller  but  not  less  interesting  points.  One 
of  the  principal  of  these  is  Thompson’s  Cascades,  situ¬ 
ated  about  two  miles  from  the  Glen  House  on  a  small 
brook  emptying  into  the  Peabody  River. 

The  quiet  of  the  woods  is  only  broken  by  the  murmurs 
of  the  lively  mountain  brook  as  it  dashes  down  the  steep 
declivity  of  Mount  Carter,  forming  a .  succession  of  the 
most  picturesque  cascades,  now  leaping  from  rock  to 
rock,  and  now  resting  for  a  moment  in  some  clear  trans¬ 
parent  pool,  until  at  last  it  joins  the  Peabody  and  is 
hurried  away. 

These  falls  are  so  near  the  Glen  House,  and  the  walk 
to  them  so  pleasant  a  one,  that  the  trip  should  not  be 
omitted. 


THOMPSON’S  CASCAPES. 


CRYSTAL  CASCADE 


IS  situated  about  three  miles  from  the  Glen 
House,  and  one  mile  from  Glen  Ellis 
Falls.  The  best  view  of  the  fall  is  to  be  had 
from  the  mossy  bank  opposite  to  and  about 
half  as  high  as  the  cascade.  The  stream 
rushing  and  dashing  on  its  way  down  from 
Tuckerman’s  Ravine,  several  miles  above,  takes 
a  sudden  curve  at  the  head  of  the  fall  and 
sweeps,  in  a  broken  sheet,  seventy  feet  down 
a  sort  of  rocky  stair-way,  spreading  toward  one 
side  a  thin,  silvery  film  of  water,  beneath  which 
can  be  seen  the  moss-covered  and  stained  rocks. 
Farther  down  the  stream  are  many  pleasant  and 
beautiful  little  cascades  which  equal,  if  not 
surpass  in  interest,  falls  which  call  forth  such 
ecstasy  in  other  parts  of  the  mountains. 


83 


86 


GLEN  ELLIS  FALLS. 


HIS  cataract— the  finest  among  the  White 


1  Mountains — is  on  the  Ellis  River,  about 
four  miles  from  the  Glen  House,  on  the  road 
toward  Conway  through  Pinkham  Notch. 

It  is  within  a  few  minutes’  walk  of  the  road, 
and  when  viewed  from  above,  one  feels  in 
doubt  as  to  the  security  of  the  overhanging 
tree  against  which  he  leans  for  support.  The 
narrow  stream  of  water  rushes  over  the  preci¬ 
pice  and  falls  with  a  deep  roar  into  the  pool 
eighty  feet  below,  finally  flowing  into  the  Saco, 
forming  views  well  worthy  of  the  artist’s  pencil. 

To  view  the  fall  from  below,  we  descend  a 
staircase  which  lands  us  on  the  rocks  imme¬ 
diately  at  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  where  we 
cross  the  stream  to  get  the  finest  view,  from 
which  point  our  illustration  is  taken. 


87 


' 


' 


90 


NORTH  CONWAY,  N.  H. 

HIS  lovely  village  is  situated  on  the  Saco  River,  in 


JL  the  most  picturesque  part  of  New  Hampshire.  It 
is  twenty-five  miles  south  of  the  White  Mountain  Notch, 
and  149  miles  from  Boston.  It  is  reached  by  rail  from 
Boston  to  Lake  Winnipisaukee,  thence  by  steamer  to 
Centre  Harbor  and  by  stage  to  North  Conway ;  from 
Portland  it  is  reached  by  rail  direct.  The  place  almost 
owes  its  existence  to  artists,  who  find  here  the  most  lovely 
scenery  to  transfer  to  canvas.  One  needs  to  stop  here 
several  days,  or  even  weeks,  and  to  see  the  mountains  at 
different  times,  in  order  to  realize  the  wonderful  beauty 
of  the  scene.  From  North  Conway  can  be  had  the 
finest  view  of  the  chain  of  the  White  Mountains  and  also 
the  Franconia  range.  In  clear  weather  the  houses  on 
the  summit  of  Mount  Washington  can  be  seen  with  the 
naked  eye.  The  chief  place  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  is 
Mount  Kiarsarge,  from  the  summit  of  which  a  fine  view 
is  had  in  all  directions.  Among  other  places  of  interest 
are  the  White  Horse  and  Hart’s  Ledges,  Echo  Lake, 
Thompson’s  Falls,  Diana’s  Bath,  The  Cathedral,  Artist’s 
Brook  and  Faffs,  Swift  River  Falls,  the  picturesque 
intervales,  and  magnificent  groves,  worthy  to  be  succes¬ 
sors  of  the  academic  groves  of  Greece. 

Weeks  can  be  spent  here  with  unceasing  pleasure, 
viewing  the  distant  mountains  at  all  hours.  When  they 
are  tinged  with  the  gorgeous  hues  of  sunset,  during  the 
sudden  storms  which  often  burst  over  them,  in  the  intense 
glare  of  noonday,  and  when  the  cool  shadows  of  evening 
creep  up  their  sides,  until  they  are  wrapped  in  the  dark¬ 
ness  of  night.  It  is  a  place  long  to  be  remembered,  and 
we  leave  it  with  regret. 


NORTH  CONWAY, 


t 


THE  CATHEDRAL. 


BOUT  three  miles  from  the 


ii  Kiarsarge  House,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Saco,  in  North  Conway, 
and  an  easy  climb  on  the  side  of  the 
Ledge,  is  a  large  cavity  in  the  rocks, 
about  forty  feet  deep  and  sixty  feet 
high,  called  the  Cathedral.  It  has  a 
smooth,  level  floor,  and  the  trees 
ranged  round  the  opening  resemble 
columns  supporting  the  Gothic  arches 
formed  by  the  boughs. 

A  fine  view  of  Mount  Kiarsarge  is 
obtained  from  this  place. 


THE  CATHEDRAL 


if 


~&r- 


CENTRE  HARBOR. 

,  T  Weirs  Station,  on  the  Boston,  Concord  and 
Montreal  Railroad,  we  go  on  board  the  little 
5oat,  the  “  Lady  of  the  Lake,”  and  a  short  sail 
'  over  the  beautiful  waters  of  Lake  Winnipisaukee  brings 
*;>us  to  Centre  Harbor.  This  little  village  of  two  or  three 
hundred  inhabitants  is  located  at  the  extreme  northern 
end  of  the  lake,  and  has  been  for  many  years  a  favorite 
resort  of  mountain  travelers.  It  is  within  easy  distance 
of  some  of  the  principal  towns,  Only  fourteen  mil'es/frbm 
Plymouth,  and  thirty-five  miles  to  the  north  is  North 
Conway  on  the  road  -to  the  White  Mountain  Notch. 
Its  principal  hotel,  the.'  “Senter  House,”  directly  fronts 
the  lake,  and  is  favorably  known  throughout  the  mount¬ 
ains  for  the  pleasant  accommodations  it  affords.  The 
scenery  about  here  is  of  the  sort  that  artists  love  to 
sketch.  There  are  no.wery  high  mountains  near  at  hand, 
no  stupendous  water-falls  or  deep  chasms.  -Nature  has 
done  her.  work  in  a  gentler  mood,  and  the  prevailing 
type  of  the  landscape  seems  to  be  picturesqueness  rather 
than  grandeur. 

The  numerous  excursions  which  can  be  made  in  the 
vicinity  help  to  make  the  time  pass  quickly.  One  of  the 
pleasantest  imaginable  is  to  the  summit  of  Red  Hill, 
which  (only  five  miles  away)  rises  to  a  height  of  two 
thousand  feet  The  view  from  this  point  takes  in  a  wide 
range.  Near  at  hand  the  Sandwich  and  Ossipee  Mount¬ 
ains  close  in  the  horizon,  while  sixty  miles  to  the  north 
the  outline  of  the  White  Mountain  range  is  faintly  visible 
against  the  "sky.  On  one  side  the  beautiful  little  “  Squam 
Lake”  is  seen,  and  right  at  our  feet  Winnipisaukee,  the 
“  gem  of  New  England  lakes,”  stretches  twenty-five  miles 
to  the  southward,  its  calm  surface  here  and  there  dotted 
with  the  most  lovely  islands. 

It  is  hard  to  Tear  one!s  self  away  from  the  neighbor¬ 
hood  of  the  lake.  It  needs  to  be  seen  in  all  phases  and 
under  every  condition  ;  flashing  in  sunlight  and  darkened 
by  clouds.  The  scene  grows  upon  a  person  until  he  at 
length  feels  the  full  force  of  the  beautiful  name  the 
Indians  gave  it:  “The  smile  of  the; Great  Spirit.” 


steam' boat, 


6pkC  I AU 

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tweEnYcatTni 

UBRMtY 


_ 


